Norwegian Forest Cats vs Maine Coons

This isn't about which breed is best - there is no best - just what's right for you.  Obviously at some stage I decided I wanted to breed and become heavily involved with Norwegian Forest Cats.  They are the breed for me.  My choice was influenced by a number of factors – the individual cats I encountered in the early days of searching, the people I met, and a sort of innate bias I have towards all things Northern.  I love the history of the Forest Cat, its large size combined with elegance and above all its intelligent, active but adorable character.  Equally others would be attracted to the cat of America, with its amiable face and huge size. Many people ask me what is the difference between Maine Coons and Norwegian Forest Cats.  Superficially they are sometimes thought of as being alike, but of course as you get to know them really they are very different, but with some similarities.

(Above:  Vieuxtemps Zeddicus has a definite NFC ‘look’ even though he’s only four months old)

Both breeds are "semi long haired" meaning that their coats are shorter than a Persian coat, and easy to look after.   The MC coat is somewhat flowing whilst the NFC has a double coat, with woolly undercoat in winter covered by glossy guard hairs.  In the spring time the woolly undercoat is shed at which point the cat suddenly looks thinner!  The seasonal difference in the MC's coat is less dramatic.  Even so, they are able to cope with fairly harsh outdoor conditions as both breeds stem from farm cats that are able to take whatever nature decides to throw at them.

Both breeds are described as large in their respective Standards.  In fact the MCs that I see in Britain tend to be bigger than the NFCs.  I have seen some larger NFCs in Scandinavia that could give the MCs a run for their money!  I have a feeling that MCs have got bigger over the years, whereas NFCs haven't.  Breeders of NFCs don't want to breed bigger and bigger cats with the problems that that might bring to the breed - such as hip dysplasia.  That has been found in a very few NFCs already and in some MCs and must be avoided at all costs.  That isn't an excuse for small NFCs however and both breeds should be sturdy and well-boned with the males considerably larger than the females.  The Maine Coon is a really strapping cat, whilst the NFC's size is meant to be tempered with elegance (long body, legs and head). Generally however most cats of both breeds are exceptionally healthy and robust.

Above: Maine Coon showing boxy muzzle and typical Maine Coon expression
 (Thanks to Daphne of Keverstone for the photo, which is by John Daniels)

Below: Norwegian Forest Cat showing correct triangular shape of head and oblique eye set 

(Thanks to Ilse of Dansbjergs for the photo)

Perhaps the most obvious physical difference between the two breeds is the head shape and expression.  The Maine Coon has a boxy muzzle and a distinct dip in its profile when seen from the side. The NFC should have a triangular head shape when seen from the front, with the ears following the sides of the head in a continuation of the triangle, and from the side the profile should look long and straight.  In reality, you get some not-so-good examples of either breed that are hard to tell apart. 

Character-wise, both breeds are really laid-back and good natured and both would be a pleasure to live with.  I have spoken to some people who own both breeds and also visited breeders of Maine Coons so I have found some differences of character and behaviour.  The MCs tend to be more talkative, giving pleasant little chirrups. NFCs are very quiet vocally, but not so quiet in their activities as they like to be involved in everything that you are doing.  Typically you only have to look at an NFC for him to come eagerly towards you, which makes it difficult to take photos sometimes!  MCs are quieter in their behaviour, tending to pose grandly and to be very relaxed most of the time.  Both are capable of being very affectionate but are not lap cats, being too large and preferring to sit next to their favourite person rather than on top of them.

Although both MCS and NFCs originated as outdoor working breeds they are content to live indoors so long as they have plenty of company, places to climb and a good scratching post.

So you want to become a cat breeder?

There are a huge number of people breeding pedigree cats in the UK, so there must be something enjoyable about it! There are also some people who breed (usually unintentionally) non-pedigree cats. Although “moggies” can be every bit as beautiful and loving as the pedigree breeds, they are of course unpredictable in their development, health and temperament, due to their unknown roots. It is also true to say that some pedigree cats are of undesirable type, health and temperament, but this is more unusual and can be researched. If you do want to breed cats, then think of it as helping to preserve your favourite breed or breeds and become one of the army of responsible breeders – it’s worth it and you’ll make lots of amazing friends along the way. Don’t casually breed non-peds, as there are too many of these already which often leads to tragedy.

Motivation

A lot of people think there is money to be made in producing and selling kittens. In my opinion, once you start thinking about profit then cat welfare goes out of the window. To give an example: in my own breed, Norwegian Forest kittens usually sell for £400. Hence you might think that an average litter of four would produce a profit of £1500 after deduction of a few expenses. In my case (as per recommendations), each kitten gets full inoculations, microchip, registration, worming and de-flea treatments totalling over £100 per kitten. If I use an outside stud cat the fee might be £200. I test my cats for HCM – a hereditary disease – which costs at least £300 per cat every two years. This is just one of the checks made to ensure that only healthy cats are used for breeding. I blood test my queens before mating so as to ensure they are in a good state of health before having kittens. I also blood test my stud cat regularly. If there is any illness then costs soar, but fortunately that doesn’t happen very often! I have never had to take a queen to the vet for a caesarian section during the birth of a litter, but if that happens it will cost several hundred pounds also.

All of the cats in my household are given full inoculations and the best possible diet – a combination of premium dry cat foods, raw chicks and bottled water. (I don’t inoculate cats that are over ten years old though as I am told that may do more harm than good.) Cat litter alone costs tens of pounds per week. I once worked out that I “lose” over a thousand pounds per year on my cats. (I don’t mind as they pay me back in purrs!) That’s not taking into account “extras” –which includes showing (I think this is essential for all breeders so as to both check on the quality of the cats they are producing, and also to support the cat fancy without which there would be no pedigree cats). Another expense in my case is travel abroad, as I like to ensure I am in touch with Norwegian Forest Cats in Scandinavia(there is a tendency for us to have a bit of an insular attitude in Britain which doesn’t help the breed). It is important to advertise kittens so that you get a good choice of purchaser (only the best new home is good enough!) There are also hidden costs such as having the heating turned up higher for young kittens, replacing damaged household items, extra phone calls and so on.

Don't cut corners!

Some breeders are more geared towards, if not making money, then at least not losing so much. They might re-home cats after a few years, hence saving the cost of caring for a retired cat that doesn’t produce any kittens, and will inevitably incur higher vet bills as he or she gets older (but is that nicer for the cats?) Some don’t bother to go to cat shows – they are happy to produce kittens without checking that they are correct according to the breed standard. Another way of saving money would be to use cheap cat food and litter, and perhaps not changing the litter as often as the cats would like. Yes, there are all sorts of corners to be cut, but believe me, it doesn’t pay in the end. I have known a breeder who tried to save money by not inoculating her cats – the result was illness running through the cattery, very expensive vet bills and ultimate tragedy.

The price of kittens varies greatly between different breeds. Some of the more fashionable, or rarer, breeds are very costly indeed, and I do believe that individuals can very occasionally make a good profit with certain breeds. But this is the exception rather than the norm. In any case, it’s best to choose a breed that you love to live with, and just accept the fact that you won’t make money. What you WILL make is a wide circle of friends, and you will meet all sorts of people you otherwise wouldn’t. In addition you will have the pleasure of living with adorable cats and have a steady supply of charming, funny and beautiful kittens.

Six golden rules

If, after having read this, you still want to give it a go – then here’s some advice:

1 – Think long and hard about which breed you would like to live with. Visit as many breeders as possible and talk to people to find out what the cats are like. Use your eyes and ears on these visits to see if you like the behaviour, looks and sounds of the cats. ALL kittens are gorgeous, so don’t be tempted to make a hasty decision!

2- Having decided on your breed (and I do suggest having just one breed, at least to start with) research any possible health problems. For example, quite a few breeds are prone to PKD (polycystic kidney disease) which is tragic. However it can easily be tested for, so if you are choosing a vulnerable breed, only buy a kitten from tested stock. The same applies to other diseases. Only then should you choose your first kitten.

3 – The best way to get to know a breed, and also learn about the good and bad points of different lines, is to buy a show neuter and attend some shows. After that you can choose your first breeding queen with more confidence.

4- Having found an available, healthy potential kitten, do ensure that you are happy with her breeder – will you get plenty of support after purchase?  Does the breeder look after their cats in a way of which you approve? Do all the cats in their household seem healthy and happy? Does the breeder have sufficient contacts to help you to find a good stud cat that compliments your queen?  Above all, do you get on with the breeder on a human level (a good relationship can really help you to progress whereas a bad one can finish you before you’ve begun)?

5 – Having chosen your breeder, make it clear that you plan to start breeding, and if they are responsible they will sell you a kitten of suitable quality. You should be able to meet the mother and siblings, and hopefully the father too, so as to get an idea of how the kitten will develop as she becomes an adult cat.

6- Go slowly, so that you can buy or keep future kittens from a position of knowledge. Don’t buy several females and a male all at once – stud cats are much more difficult to live with and you do need experience as a breeder before obtaining one. However you can start researching which stud you are going to use many months before your kitten is old enough to become a mother, and contact the owners who should be helpful and supportive.

With these steps in place, you will have mounted the first rung on the ladder of cat-breeding. You should be prepared for possible setbacks – for example, not all cats become pregnant easily; feline illness can appear unexpectedly and undeservedly; the best laid plans sometimes go astray. At these times, remember that your reward will come when you eventually produce a fine litter of kittens. In the meanwhile, what a delight it is simply to enjoy the company of your chosen breed of cat (especially if you choose Norwegian Forest Cats)!